Between their classics outdated and new: Extra fat chow funn, noodles as chewy as mochi, that has a veneer of crisp; honey walnut shrimp in fluffy, shattery clouds of batter, slaked with candy mayo; crackly edged “Spam” created from Duroc pork; and, for dessert, pale blushing lychee granita, which has a cache of warm pink dragon fruit ready to

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